Chiang Mai is the place to go in northern Thailand for travelers seeking a mix of culture, adventure, great food and relaxed city life, all at an affordable price.
This former capital of the ancient Lanna Kingdom oozes historical charm, is laid-back when measured against the frenetic rhythm of Bangkok and yet is packed with things to explore and enjoy.
The Old City is where the magic really happens, especially for first-time visitors to Chiang Mai. It's encircled by a moat and remnants of ancient city walls, and guests can easily spend a day discovering leafy lanes, temples, cafes and crafts producers like those in the Kalm Village. It was here that I picked up beautifully woven, colorful pieces for the table and hand-beaten silver finger bowls.
One of Chiang Mai's claims to fame is its more than 300 temples. The Wat Chedi Luang stands out with its typical Lanna architecture, and the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, up in the mountains about half an hour away, has a golden pagoda and stunning views of the city.
In Bo Sang village, artisans create colorful, hand-painted parasols from bamboo and paper. Photo Credit: Thai Tourism
Coffee, thrills and handicrafts
Chiang Mai's trending coffee culture is found in little cafes that source their beans from hill tribe farmers and do the roasting in-house, giving coffee lovers a chance to taste unique brews they will not find elsewhere. At Akha Ama, whose coffee has won multiple awards, the choice of pour-over, Aeropress and drip coffees come in a range of light, medium and dark roasts, catering to all tastes.
At nightfall, vibrant markets set up stalls selling local handicrafts, clothing, jewelry, art and silverware. The Sunday Walking Street is famous for its food stalls, with local specialties like khao soi, a creamy coconut curry noodle soup topped with crispy fried noodles; sai ua, a flavorful northern Thai sausage; and sweet treats like mango sticky rice.
Thrill-seekers will not want to miss the Jungle Flight adventure park to tear through the tropical canopy on the world's longest zipline roller coaster, for 1,000 meters of pure adrenaline.
In Bo Sang village, just outside the city, artisans make colorful parasols from bamboo and paper and then skillfully paint them by hand. For lovers of wildlife, the ethical Elephant Nature Park lets visitors interact with rescued elephants and learn their stories of survival. Tours to hill tribe villages reveal how ancient lifestyles and traditions still live on, and there is hiking through the Doi Inthanon National Park to explore waterfalls and cloud forests.
Getting around this compact university city is simple and affordable, thanks to the bargain-priced three-wheeled motorized tuk-tuks and songthaews, which are shared red trucks with bench seats. Scooter rentals are also available (drivers must be over 18) for those who want to explore at their own pace.
Anantara Chiang Mai Resort's riverboat Dibba Yana Chitta, part of the resort’s JAO Ping River Cruise in Thailand. Photo Credit: Thai Tourism
When it comes to accommodations, Chiang Mai offers something for every pocket, with top-end properties like the Four Seasons, Four Pillars House, Shangri-La and Melia.
My choice was the five-star Anantara Chiang Mai Resort. On a busy city road, the riverside setting and blend of heritage and contemporary gave me an instant feeling of serenity. With 52 rooms and 32 suites, it has a swimming pool surrounded by lily ponds, an excellent spa -- with an IV-drip bar offering vitamin B12 to boost flagging energy levels -- and an elegant steakhouse in a heritage building that was the British Consulate in the 1920s.
I took a dinner cruise on the Anantara's Dibba Yana Chitta, a riverboat created by the Thai artist who designed the White Temple, one of top attractions in the city of Chiang Rai (about three hours to the north of Chiang Mai).
Dining onboard was an immersion into a living work of art -- a golden royal barge of hand-carved mythical figures. We meandered up and down the Mae Ping, and the menu -- by a Bangkok Michelin-starred chef -- consisted of a flawlessly executed seven-course dinner paired with excellent wines and featuring spectacular flaming plates and swirling mists for a truly one-of-a-kind culinary affair.