It feels almost sacrilegious to come to Puerto Vallarta and not stay right on the beach. This is, after all, one of Mexico's most beloved seaside destinations, a place where travelers dream of opening their balcony doors to the sound of waves and spectacular seafront sunsets.
Casa Velas, by contrast, isn't on the beach at all; the adults-only, all-inclusive luxury resort sits with its back to the Marina Vallarta Golf Club. But here's the thing: Guests won't miss the beach one bit.
That's the magic of Casa Velas. It's not trying to compete with the oceanfront resorts. Instead, it offers a completely different Puerto Vallarta experience.
For travelers who already know about it, it's an institution. For everyone else, it's one of the city's best-kept secrets.
A hacienda at the marina
Casa Velas is tucked away in the upscale Marina Vallarta neighborhood, a chip shot from the golf course and five minutes from the Puerto Vallarta Airport. But because of where it sits, pushed back away from the busy streets and high-rise condos, it feels worlds away.
The design is classic hacienda style, with lemon sorbet-colored walls, terra cotta tile roofs, arched doorways and gardens with babbling fountains and bursts of bougainvillea. The aesthetic is warm and traditional, and while some areas of the resort are starting to show their age, most everything is meticulously maintained.
Instead of an ocean soundtrack, you get the rustle of palm fronds, the soft chatter of tropical birds and the occasional thwack of a golf ball in the distance. It's an entirely different vibe for Puerto Vallarta.
All 80 accommodations at Casa Velas are suites, starting at 463 square feet. I stayed in a Grand Class Suite, which came with its own private plunge pool in the garden. The interiors swing traditional, as well, with dark-wood furniture and clay-colored tile floors. Sliding glass doors open to the plunge pool and a small terrace, perfect for early-morning coffee or an afternoon glass of wine.
After a day of exploring Puerto Vallarta -- wandering the cobblestone streets of downtown or cruising along Banderas Bay -- it was blissful to return to my suite, kick off my sandals and sink my tired feet into the cool water of my little backyard pool with a glass of wine in hand.
Palm trees and daybeds surround the pool at Casa Velas. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
Pool paradise
The heart of the property is its intimate turquoise pool, the jewel of the resort, surrounded by swaying palms and an array of cushioned daybeds and lounge chairs. It's small enough to feel private but large enough to spread out or post up at the swim-up Aqua Bar.
Of all the things at Casa Velas, this pool quickly became my favorite. From the water, you have the perfect perch to take in the rest of the resort: the tropical landscaping, the steps leading up to the lobby's outdoor patio and the outdoor seating area of the resort's restaurant, Emiliano. It's easy to lose track of hours here, especially surrounded by the wreath of palm trees and the quiet that you wouldn't find at a beachfront resort.
Emiliano serves a menu of Mexican and international dishes. Breakfast alfresco overlooking the pool is a lovely way to start the day, while a candlelit dinner in the dining room dials up the romance. As part of the all-inclusive package, guests also have access to the two restaurants at nearby sister property, Velas Vallarta.
Wellness guests who are more accustomed to the palatial spas that are in vogue may find the Abja Spa to be a bit bare bones and small, but the massages certainly don't disappoint. The menu also has dedicated Ancestral Therapies, from pre-Hispanic stone therapy massage to four-handed herbal rituals that use aromatic herbal compresses.
On the ground floor below the spa is the fitness center, which has floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the pool deck.
For guests who still need that sand-and-surf fix, the good news is that the resort provides a complimentary shuttle for a three-minute ride to the Tau Beach Club, one of the best stretches of sand and social scenes in the city. The oceanfront hideaway has its own pool, beachside loungers and restaurant. It's a great option when you want a dose of sand and sea without committing to a full-blown beach resort stay.
Who it's for
Casa Velas is undeniably perfect for couples who crave peace, privacy and a low-key kind of luxury. There's no thumping nightlife or over-the-top entertainment program here. Instead, you'll find a clientele that values quiet mornings, leisurely lunches and afternoons spent lounging by the pool or on a shaded terrace.
The property's location on the golf course also makes it a natural choice for golfers, of course. Guests can book the Stay & Play Golf Experience, which includes a round of golf at Marina Vallarta Golf Club or the Vista Vallarta Golf Club, which is 20 minutes inland.
And the resorts' proximity to Marina Vallarta means restaurants, shops and yacht charters are just steps away.