By the time I reached the Historische Wurstkuchl, a deep cold had set in, thanks to the winter chill and steady drizzle of rain.
I knew I would find solace in this restaurant in Regensburg, Germany, said to be the oldest sausage restaurant in the world, and from the meal: several housemade sausages grilled to perfection served on a bed of sauerkraut alongside sweet mustard. My friend and I each ordered a slightly bitter beer and split a salty pretzel to round out the meal.
We were on the Viking Gullveig for a Christmas market cruise on the Danube. I had last visited the Danube in March, when the weather was similar to what I was greeted with in December, but the cups of mulled wine, known regionally as gluhwein, and the bustling markets erased any glumness brought by the dreary rain.
Historische Wurstkuchl in Regensburg, Germany, is believed to be the oldest sausage restaurant in the world. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
We had gained a peek into the small restaurant, located alongside the Danube, as the cooks prepared the day's roasted sausages on a grill (they serve 6,000 a day). The cozy establishment opens at 11 a.m., and though we arrived within 15 minutes of its opening, the few tables inside were filled. It meant that the ever-growing line of patrons would instead have to dine inside a large building next door that was once a salt barn.
Holiday shopping and snacking
Walking through three of Regensburg's four Christmas markets, we were greeted by the aroma of sugary roasted nuts, the smell of the mulled wine and the savory scent of sausages.
Along with the spoils of Bavarian cuisine available at our fingertips, the stalls featured goods from local artisans, including handcrafted wood items, pottery and candles. Perhaps my favorite aspect was the chance to pay a small deposit for a ceramic mug filled with gluhwein (drinkers who decide to forfeit their deposits can keep the mugs as souvenirs).
Sausages from Historische Wurstkuchl in Regensburg. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
Market attendees often collect mugs from different markets and stalls, building a trove of exclusive mugs to lug home. All gluhwein is not created equal, with each town infusing its own traditions. But one thing's for certain regardless of the region: the steaming mug is a welcome reprieve from the December cold and frequent rain that accompanied us on our Christmas market cruise.
From Regensburg, our Viking ship departed for Passau, nicknamed "the city of three rivers" due to the Danube, Inn and Ilz that converge there. At the Passauer Christkindlmarkt, held in front of St. Stephen's Cathedral, my friend and I indulged in a piping hot bratwurst served in a baguette and slathered in tangy mustard. From there, we were lured to a stall by a sugary sweet smell wafting through the air: chimney cakes.
We couldn't resist the temptation of the cylindrical pastry served with a coating of the customer's choosing; we opted for cinnamon sugar, which perfectly complemented the crunchy exterior and chewy interior of the Eastern European dessert. We watched in awe as a man slapped the dough on a pastry bench before slicing it in long strips, rolling it out and wrapping it around a wooden spit. Before putting the cakes in the oven, he coated them in oil or butter before rolling them in sugar to caramelize above the flames.
For those craving an extra dose of sweetness, the cake can be filled with Nutella or white chocolate for an additional euro.
A stall at a Regensburg Christmas market sells cookies. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
Viking's Christmas spirit
The Christmas cheer of the markets extended from the cities we visited to the ship itself.
The holiday decor was subtle, with a tree in the lounge and garland adorning the ceiling. A gingerbread house was on display, and Christmas music and hymns softly played in the background.
One evening, the ship hosted party where each guest decorated an ornament to hang on the tree while sipping on homemade eggnog or the ship's version of gluhwein. It made for a cozy end to a day of market-hopping.